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Swallows Nest (Yalta)
Photo by Ukraine Cognita

 

he name has an almost mystic quality, evoking remote civilizations, long-forgotten battles between fallen empires, and the most important summit of leaders in the 20th Century. And yet, Crimea has a modern pull as well. Its warm climate, beautiful nature and strategic location on the northern shores of the Black Sea make it today, as in the days of the Tsars and Soviet masters, a popular tourism destination that attracts many millions each year.

But now, as in recent centuries, Crimea remains a destination visited almost exclusively by Ukrainians and Russians, with a second group coming from other former Soviet states. Few Western tourists make their way there.

But they should.
On a recent October day, southern Crimea was awash in fall colors. Fields of yellow and red grapevines run to the foot of hillsides splashed with a rainbow of warm tints. Above, bare rocks jut towards the sky, often shrouded in wreaths of drifting mist.

Along the coast, sunlight slants through openings in heavy rain clouds, and dances on the rippling surface of the sea. Black seems the wrong name for this sea in this place. From Crimea, the sea speaks of the sun, of the south, and on its shores you can find exotic plants and palms, rare sights for the former Soviet Union.

No wonder, then, that Russia's Tsars chose this as their favorite place for relaxation. Or that the Soviet leaders and ordinary citizens followed in the royal footsteps, making Crimean resorts the favored resting place for ruler and ruled alike.

Before them, Alexander Pushkin, Russia’s most famous author, visited the Crimea as an