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AN ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE WASHINGTON POST MAGAZINE
 
         
Pro-democracy demonstrators in Kyiv last year.
Photo by UKRINFORM



cars from around the world and, well, just about anything you might find in any other modern marketplace. Most large towns in Ukraine also have modern shops and a good selection of restaurants, but Kyiv leads in variety and luxury.

Kyiv is an old city with a young spirit. The many attractive girls strolling down Khreschatyk Street, Kyiv's 'Champs Elysées', checking out the glamorous offerings in western boutiques, can be striking. But there is a drive beneath the casual surface of young people shopping and socializing. "Young people here don't know the word 'no'," says Kevin Whelan, an American film producer from Washington, who recently visited Ukraine. "They work around the clock to get it done."

The "it" here is nearly everything, from restoring

to IT (Ukraine has become the fourth largest country in computer programming). Always a highly-educated population, Ukrainians have tightened their belts for the difficult transition from a state controlled command economy to a market economy. The growing pains have been rewarded, and, after an economically painful 1990s, in recent years Ukraine has been averaging GDP growth rates of nine percent, higher than any achieved by West European economies.

A millennium ago, the Kyivian Rus Empire was the dominant power in East Europe. But after those long ago glory days, one of its eastern outposts centered in Moscow rose to supercede Kyivian Rus as a powerful Russian Empire. The lands now known as Ukraine (which means borderlands) have been subject to various conquests and its people have suffered occupations and persecutions, making Ukraine's story a thread running through the histories of the Ottomans, Byzantines, Tzars, Habsburgs and Soviets.

All of these have left their traces on at least some areas of Ukraine, but none has had such a profound impact as the Soviet Union. Under Stalin, the Soviets first crushed a staunch Ukrainian resistance to inclusion in the USSR, then starved millions of Ukrainians to death, especially the independent-minded Kulaks. The human toll of Stalin's conquest and oppression is almost beyond belief. It is estimated that between the Russian Revolution in 1917 and the end of World War II in 1945, some 26 million Ukrainians lost their lives from Stalin's genocide and wars. genocide and wars.

After seven decades of Russian rule and a little more than a decade of independence, Ukraine is still closely connected to its former motherland. Russian is the dominant language in eastern parts of Ukraine and the capital, although Ukrainian is in ever greater use in the capital and dominates in central and western regions. And while Ukraine has clearly embraced the modern ways of the western world, in everything from style to banking services and management techniques, a strong affinity for Russia still exists.

In fact the pull of East versus West was a major factor in the presidential elections last year, in which incumbent Prime Minister Viktor Yanukovych stressed the importance of keeping close ties with Russia while gradually integrating with the West, and his rival, former Prime Minister Viktor Yushchenko, advocated a more rapid integration with the West.

Ukraine is learning that it can benefit from being the meeting place of West and East, rather than the victim of tensions dividing them. As another article in this report details, investors are beginning to flock to Ukraine to take advantage of its proximity to the European Uion and the huge marketof CIS countries.

buildings and establishing new restaurants, to modernizing traditional industries and creating new ones. Ukrainians have had to practically rebuild their country from scratch because what they inherited from their long night of Soviet subjugation was a decrepit infrastructure built with out-ofdate technologies and suffering from poor quality designs and materials. The pride of Soviet Ukraine's industrial power had been its defense industry, most of which proved useless once the Soviet Union collapsed and the Cold War came to an end.

Ukraine still builds tanks, airplanes (Antonov makes the world's largest cargo plane), rockets and ships, but a new generation of hard-working and eager entrepreneurs has plunged into a variety of new industries, from fashion

Kyiv’s modernizing skyline.
Photo by Brams